TAUMARUNUI – NATIONAL PARK VILLAGE

Section Distance = 121 km

Total Distance = 571 km

In between my Whanganui River attempts outlined in Te Araroa Part 4 was an epic section of the trail which encompassed forest, volcanoes, alpine bog and all the environments in between!!!

In order to give the river levels time to drop I decided to flip flop (change the direction of my hike) and head south from Taumarunui back to National Park Village to pick up the river leg again.

TAUMARANUI – OWHANGO

This section began in Taumarunui with a gravel road section to Owhango. I met two other TA’s Andrew and Marty who would be my trail buddies for the next 5 days. It was my first day on trail walking with another TA instead of solo and the km’s seem to go much faster with conversation.

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OWHANGO – 42 TRAVERSE

The 42 Traverse is a mountain bike/4wd track that links Owhango to State hwy 4 and we decided to undertake the 38km over two days.

The trail began in a lovely forest before joining the undulating gravel bike track. As we gained altitude we entered the bush/ scrub and finding a suitable camp site was a challenge. 🏕 Of coarse after packing up camp the next day we had only gone 1km before we found a large flat grassed area next to a river…

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42 TRAVERSE – TONGARIRO HOLIDAY PARK

Turning off the 42 traverse for the Waione Cokers Track got the glutes burning as the trail immediately became deeply rutted slippery mud, gorse covered and steep!!! I think one part of the trail was the actual creek but after the ridge was gained it was back to cabbage tree forest and muddy but flatish paths before finally popping out onto state hwy 4 for the last km to the Tongariro Holiday Park.

We treated ourselves to cabins to dry the tents out and get an early start the next morning for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing!

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TONGARIRO HOLIDAY PARK – MANGATEPOPO HUT 

We left the holiday park at 6:30am for the 7km road walk to the start of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing (technically the end for day hikers but the start for us doing it in reverse) and began our ascent.

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There was snow ❄ at the top which was very exciting for me at least but the wind and cloud did mean we didn’t get the views over blue lake and red crater. We had all prepared for the cold weather and reduced visibility and remained warm in our layers despite a wind chill in the negative! 🥶

Be prepared for alpine conditions on the crossing at any time of year and turn around if necessary! 

The ridge to the red crater was the highest point of the crossing at 1868m but also the hardest for me with my pack on the steep, slippery narrow ridge being hounded by a gale force crosswind.

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It was all downhill from there and by the time we arrived at Mangatepopo Hut the sun had arrived to give us our first views of Mt Ngauruhoe (aka Mt Doom) 🌋

I also learnt that Mt Tongariro apparently means “seized by the cold south wind” which is highly appropriate 🌬🤣

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MANGATEPOPO HUT – NATIONAL PARK VILLAGE 

Another early start for the final day to reach National Park Village! Today was all about Mt Ruapehu (which I also learnt means “exploding pit”) which overlooked our entire journey.

From its pre dawn shadow, sunrise lighting up its snowy cap to its constant presence in front, beside, behind us no matter how far we walked.

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Reaching Whakapapa Village we treated ourselves to a second breakfast at the Whakapapa Holiday Park food truck (second breakfasts are a vital part of any adventure as any hobbit will tell you!) before continuing on through an ever changing alpine landscape. Tundra, forest, bog, mountain, lahar flow zones… all beautiful to explore.

The rain came and went and the lovely boardwalk for the tourist trail turned into the actual bog for the TA trail, it was stunning and slippery and the steps were built for giants!

The final roadwalk into National Park Village was a seemingly endless straight for weary feet but we made it.

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I don’t know if I have the words for how epic this section was to hike! It showcased just how changeable and beautiful NZ landscapes can be in a small part of the overall TA journey.

It has also actually reinforced to me that this crazy adventure I am on is not just a dream but an achievable goal! One day at a time, one step at a time and I can complete the entire 3000km length of New Zealand…

Next up Te Araroa Part 6 where I tackle the Tararua Ranges section I had to skip earlier due to unsafe weather conditions. Let the flip flopping continue… 

For more photos from my adventure don’t forget to follow me on Instagram @discover_with_danni