WAIKANAE – PALMERSTON NORTH

Section Distance = 80.5 km

Total Distance = 171.5 km

Moss forests, mountains and mud…mostly mud!

The Tararua Ranges are known for being one of the most challenging sections of the TA as well as the most notorious for weather changes. In that fashion the weather report for the ranges was, well, less than ideal 🌧🌬🥶❄ so I made the decision to skip ahead from Waikanae to Levin and re-enter the forest park there instead.

Don’t worry Tararua Ranges round two will be forthcoming…in Summer instead, when the conditions are safer 😉☀️

WAIKANAE – MAKAHIKA CENTRE

NEW PLAN – Hiked the Waikanae coastal track through the estuary and followed the river trail into town. Then, it was a bus ride north to Levin before hiking the road back in to join the trail at the Makahika Centre. From here to Palmerston North there will be no roads, no towns and almost no reception. 

MAKAHIKA CENTRE – TOKOMARU SHELTER

Re-joining the trail at the Makahika Centre I started the day with anticipation for my first foray into proper backcountry trails on the TA!!!

I was so excited I managed to pack down my tent ⛺ with the inner and rain fly still connected (yep rookie error) which basically means the entire tent got soaked with condensation…🤦‍♀️ Lucky I had some shelters ahead to dry it out again.

This section of the trail also coincided with my 30th birthday and oh boy the forest did not disappoint!!!

Walking along (and through) crystal clear rivers, surrounded by a green cloak of forest, slogging my way up and down slopes and attempting, sometimes unsuccessfully to not get stuck in the mud.

It was a birthday I will definitely never forget!

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One thing I really notice hiking in NZ is how quiet the forest is. Only the occasional birdsong 🐦 joins the symphony of rivers, waterfalls and tree whispers.

This is one of the reasons I really want to support the amazing community groups along the trail route working for habitat restoration, predator control and native species conservation, to bring the bird song back to the forest!

TOKOMARU SHELTER – MOTORIMU SHELTER

The Mangahao-Makahika Track gave way to the ‘slightly’ easier gradient of Burtton’s Track. Just as beautiful and with lots more river crossings I squelched my way onwards through what felt at times another world!

There were a few roadblocks to maneuver around…slips, dead fall and the ever present mud. The most challenging part of these was usually bush bashing to rejoin the path on the other side without getting my pack caught. I forget sometimes that it’s more than just me that needs to fit over, or under, or around a vine tangle 😅

Shout out to the amazing people who have constructed the Tokomaru and Motorimu Shelters for TA hikers along this route. They are a welcome site after a long hard day!

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MOTORIMU SHELTER – PALMERSTON NORTH

The last day of this section leaves the Tararua Forest Park and heads into Gordon Kear Forest and Arapuke Forest Park where the moss and ferns are replaced by pine and gravel roads on the loooong roadwalk into Palmerston North. The biggest hazard here is dodging the mountain bikers.

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The Tararuas always make it hard work but these forests are definitely worth it!!!

A rest and re-supply day in Palmy before continuing north. 

Next section Te Araroa Part 3 Palmerston North to Whanganui.