MANGAWHAI HEADS – PAIHIA

Section Distance = 192 km

Total Distance = 2652 km

MANGAWHAI HEADS – WAIPU COVE 

Heather from the NZ Fairy Tern Trust joined me for the first few km up to the Mangawhai cliff top walkway. After which I took a slight deviation from the official trail route to take in the Waipu Coastal Walkway past pancake rocks instead of over the range.

This “under construction” track was better than most of the trails I’ve been on and pops out at the Cafe and Campground at Waipu Cove – perfect!

 

WAIPU COVE – RUAKAKA – MANAIA

The next section involves multiple tidal estuary crossings so I decided to do some shorter days to line up with low tide and enjoy the stunning northland scenery. I always take my boots off for tidal estuary crossings as the salt water can dry and damage my already VERY worn boots.  

After a lift over the Whangarei Harbour by boat I had a whole afternoon to relax in my tent with beach views, read a book and relax. 

 

MANAIA – OCEAN BEACH 

After several days of flat beaches the 1200 steps that heralded the beginning of the Te Whara Track in the Bream Head Reserve was a bit of a shock for the legs but after a hot, sweaty climb the views from Mt Lion were definitely worth the effort!

The well-maintained trail along the ridgeline led me through beautiful forest, past giant stone monoliths and had endless views along the coast. I could see my path from the last few days as well as what awaited ahead.

I was thankful for the tree cover in this section as it was a cloudless summers day ☀️☀️☀️

Trail angels have a lovely camp spot set up right at the southern end of Ocean Beach and after a hot day of hiking seeing a shower was very exciting 😅

 

OCEAN BEACH – TIDESONG 

Hiking in soft sand is soooo frustrating but to reach the Taiharuru River in time for a low tide crossing I had to tackle Ocean Beach at high tide…

After a short climb over Kauri Mountain and road descended to the river (I arrived a little early but the tide was out far enough for a thigh deep crossing) 

I encountered my first mangrove crossing to reach the river and oh boy was I glad that I could wash off in the river because the mud was deep and black and sticky…

Stayed at Tidesong b&b in an adorable little cabin set up for TA hikers with lovely hosts Ros and Hugh!

 

TIDESONG – NGUNUGURU 

My first really late start on trail at 10am but I only had 10km to my next river crossing and low tide wasn’t until 2pm…

Another easy crossing but with one deep section (wet pants again) before a few more km to reach the Ngunguru River (which I got a lift across from James and his boat) and eventually pitching my tent at Mila’s Place. 🏕

I still had to do my re-supply in Ngunguru that evening so had hoped to get in earlier but the tide changes for no-one and all I can do is plan around it as best I can. Luckily there was still plenty of daylight by the time I arrived at camp.

 

NGUNGURU – WHANANAKI 

Mostly road walking through to Whananaki and this time I had a bridge over the Inlet, and what a bridge!

395m long, the footbridge was originally built in 1947 to enable the children living on the south of the Inlet to get to the school located on the north bank.

 

WHANANAKI – HELENA BAY – RAWHITI ROAD 

After weeks of glorious weather the rain returned and gifted me with mud slick tracks, wet fern fronds to the face and soggy roadwalks over the next few days (although several people stopped to ask me if I wanted a lift, I must have looked pretty waterlogged 🌧🌧🌧)

RAWHITI ROAD – PAIHIA 

I decided to hike up to Russel and take the passenger ferry across to Paihia but on arrival I found the ferry cancelled due to the weather. A momentary panic thinking I was going to have to walk ALL the way back and around I thankfully discovered a bus replacement 😬

I arrived to a wet a blustery Paihia and decided to check into the Haka Lodge backpackers. Very happy with my decision when the gale force winds and torrential rain began that night!!!

Time for a rest day (and a wait out the storm day) before I continue north! Te Araroa Part 20 gets me all the way to 90-mile beach and the 100km home stretch!!!