TAUMARUNUI – TE KUITI

Section Distance = 161 km

Total Distance = 2026 km

I’m back to finish the north island!!! When I began my TA journey I could only get as far north as Taumaranui before I ran into a COVID lockdown, so I had to abandon plan A, B and C and head to the south island instead. After completing the south island SOBO (southbound), I’m now back to finish the rest of the north island NOBO (northbound). 

I flew from Invercargill to Wellington and then jumped onto the Intercity Bus to get back to Taumaranui where we shall pick up the adventure. 

TAUMARANUI – ONGARUE CAMPSITE 

Road walking in a cyclone to kick it off 😅 but at least I didn’t have to worry about river crossings. I chose to sleep on the floor of the shelter rather than trying to set my tent up in the deluge 🌧🌧🌧 

 

ONGARUE CAMPSITE – MYSTERY CREEK SHELTER

Over the next 3 days I will cover the length of the Timber Trail learning about the old logging routes, crossing my longest swing bridge yet (Maramataha Bridge 141m long) and getting absolutely soaked…

After pouring rain all night, the weather eased in time for an early start on the Timber Trail. After navigating through so much of the south island wilderness it was refreshing and relaxing to again be on a proper trail. Mostly used as a mountain bike trail each KM was numbered and the markers were abundant! 

This section included a tunnel at Ongarue Spiral, historic camps no.10 and no.11 as well as the first giant swing bridge Mangatukutuku Bridge. 

The track is cut straight through rock in some places, so the moss and fern covered walls surround you as you pass through. 

The wind and torrential rain returned late afternoon, so I decided to stop at Mystery Creek Shelter. Designed as a lunch stop for mountain bikers and hikers the shelter has two bench seats and an open front but with the choice between setting up the tent in the gales and a solid roof I opted for the shelter. It’s times like these where being short really comes in handy and I fit perfectly onto one of the bench seats! I don’t think this is what they were designed for but with a long drop out the back and creek nearby it was much appreciated shelter as the cyclone blew through… 

I shared the shelter with a very soggy swallow who also took the cover in favor of the storm. 

MYSTERY CREEK SHELTER – BOG INN HUT 

Another rainy day, but at least it is a constant light rain rather than the torrents of the night. And as an extra bonus, the rain kept the hot muggy weather to a tolerable temperature. This section continues through some beautiful old growth Totara Forest and crosses the longest swing bridge of the trail (and that I have ever crossed) Maramataha Bridge (141m long and 53m above the river). 

The last 5km was a slippery uphill hike to reach Bog Inn Hut. Aptly named, I sloshed through the bog and did a balancing act on the timber boards laid down to reach it. The old timber hut was built in 1960 and all this rain means the tank is overflowing. I have the hut to myself and took full advantage, spreading out my gear to dry on any available surface. 

My favourite moment was reading the hut book and seeing notes from other hikers caught in the deluge of the day before “I’ve been dryer in a swimming pool” making me laugh out loud! 

 

BOG INN HUT – PUREORA 

I hiked out to Pureora through old growth totara forest brimming with birdlife and although I didn’t hear the elusive Kokako there was Kereru, Fantails, Kaka, Tomtit, Robins and Riflemen.

After several days of soaking socks I had to resort to copious amounts of tape on my feet. A measure I haven’t had to take since the feet destroying road walk between Palmerston North and Whanganui in Te Araroa Part 3. 

This section of trail was also made of compacted pumice…

PUREORA – MANGAOKEWA NORTH TRAIL ANGEL CAMP

After the beautiful Timber Trail the loooong roadwalk to Mangaokewa North was a bit boring and absolutely killed my feet 😒 but some lovely farmers have set up a little camp shelter at the end of the road which was a very welcome relief! 

The three key memories of this evening were;

• The tent site for the night was determined by density of sheep poo 🐑🤣🏕

• I never realized how loud sheep chew until I had 30 of them grazing right outside my tent at 9pm that night 😅
• I reached my 2000km milestone!!!

 

MANGAOKEWA NORTH – TE KUITI 

The final day into Te Kuiti follows the Mangaokewa River Track and let’s just say the 20km’s presented a few challenges… gorse, blackberry, slips to bush bash around, cattle trod farmland and walking on a constant 45 degree angle to name a few! I was very happy to reach Te Kuiti. 

What do you do to keep yourself motivated on those boring road walks? 

My go to is to pop the music on and let the beats distract me from my sore feet 🎶🎶🎶

Continuing north in Te Araroa Part 16 I encounter glowworms, one of my favourite campsites of the trail and finally leave the rain behind!