“Well deserved of its ‘Great Walk’ reputation!”

From moss covered forests to snow-capped mountains, wildlife to waterfalls this track is well deserved of its ‘Great Walk’ reputation.

For hundreds of years the Maori people of New Zealand used Mackinnon Pass as their overland route to access Milford Sound and collect Pounamu (the prized greenstone relied upon for tools, weapons and jewellery). But not only did they make this journey without packs, hiking boots or solid shelters but they also hauled back rocks on the return trip. 

After its re-discovery by European explorers and surveyors the route evolved into an avenue for hikers to explore the wilds of Fiordland and experience the majestic scenery of Milford Sound. And what an experience it is!

The water taxi dropped us off at the beginning of the trail and the first day was a short easy hike to Clinton Hut.  My father joined me for this adventure as his first experience of multi-day hiking in New Zealand. Luckily, I had mentioned the high change of rain in this region, so we were both fully prepared for a soggy hike with wet weather gear, dry sacks and pack covers. And we were going to need them!!! 

Overnight we had A LOT of rain. And by a lot, I meant what I would call the total annual rainfall for where I grew up in the Hunter Valley Australia in a mere 12 hours. This of course had consequences for our plans the next day.

The hut ranger checked the track and we were definitely stuck. Flooded in for the next 24 hours until the water levels subsided, we instead spent the day exploring around the hut, having a hut trivia quiz with our fellow hikers and hoping more rain wouldn’t fall. 

Thankfully, the water levels go down just as quickly as they rise and the next morning we were on our way! 

As I walked along the glacial carved floor of Clinton Valley with the sheer rock walls on either side sporting hundreds of waterfalls I was awed by the landscapes that surrounds me. Hiking the valley feels like stepping out of time and even though there are other hikers on the track you can go hours not seeing another soul. Ahead, the flat-topped ridge marks Mackinnon Pass. 

As the path zigs and zags its way upwards snow starts to appear. Just patches at first, persisting in the shady hollows of the ferns, but then slowly making its way between the rocks until finally a white path lies before us. Easily distinguished by the footprints of the early birds who have ascended ahead the path slowly turns from a white powder to icy slush depending on how many have trod upon it. Handy tip, don’t be the first hiker; they get to find all the creeks and rocks hidden under the snow layer…

Reaching Mackinnon Pass affords stunning panoramic views (staggered between the cloud banks) across the Clinton Valley and truly shows just how far we have already come. Distant avalanches could still be heard even though the majority of the winter snowfall had melted away.  We were greeted at the top by a solitary Kea (our first of the trip but definitely not the last) who took great interest in our packs whenever our backs were turned, and the intelligent parrot had perfected the art of waiting until you were distracted by the view to investigate it.

The steep descent from the Pass delves into the alpine forests and along the Roaring Burn River with views over Sutherland Falls. The falls themselves when reached can only be described as sheer force and power. If you don’t already have your wet weather gear on now is a good time to test it.

The rushing streams slowly give way to the slow and steady Arthur River where crystal clear waters invite the brave to sample its ‘refreshing’ (freezing) waters. Mirror still Lake Ada, the curious Bell Rock and the obligatory swing bridges lead us to our goal, Sand-fly Point!

2 people, 4 days and 53.5km traversed! This hike has been one of indescribable scenery, unique wildlife and stunning waterfalls.

Ready for your own adventure? Check out my Top 5 Tips for Hiking the Milford Track!